Original Prusa i3 MK2 – Todo list?

Firmware upgrade

GNU/Linux Users, you can upload hex file using avrdude.

– Install arduino from your distro repos (Tested on Ubuntu 12.04)

– Download your new firmware for your board from: http://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/

– Extract

– Open a terminal and cd to extracted dir

– Upload by running (Change “3mm-RAMBo13a-PrusaNmk2.hex” to your board and extruder):

/usr/share/arduino/hardware/tools/avrdude -C/usr/share/arduino/hardware/tools/avrdude.conf -v -patmega2560 -cstk500v2 -P/dev/ttyACM0 -b115200 -D -Uflash:w:3mm-RAMBo13a-PrusaNmk2.hex:i

Alejandro RomeroMay 8

Under Linux I flashed the firmware .hex file with avrdude:

avrdude -c stk500v2 -b 115200 -p Atmega2560 -v -P /dev/ttyACM0 -D -U 1_75mm_MK2-RAMBo13a-E3Dv6full-3.0.8.hex

Even better would be compiling the firmware myself, but so far the Arduino project didn’t want to be built..

Jonas JeltenSeptember 26

http://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk2-f23/first-things-to-print-for-mk2–t2001.html
For me, I changed out my LM8UU bearings on my Y-axis for some SKF LBBR 8-2LS bearings. They are slightly stiffer and cover more surface area on the linear rods. The old ones gained too much slop from multiple misalignment issues.

There are all sorts of modifications and improvements that can be done to the MK2. Here are some of my highlights:

  1. MK2 Alignment sticks or a good pair of digital calipers that can go up to at least 180mm. You want the linear rods to be spaced 170mm on center apart as measured from both the front and rear of the machine and you want the Z-frame to be spaced 100mm from the rear of the machine to the Z-Frame. I have my Calibrate XYZ always saying that “all axis are perpendicular” because of this.
  2. Replacement Y-axis motor mount This one allows you to use NEMA dampers to make the printer quieter. There are multiple posts in the Improvements about making the MK2 quiet.
  3. Y-Motor Brace If you got the kit and not the prebuilt, chances are, it doesn’t come with this piece.
  4. MK2 Cable Chains This is a preferences thing, so if you don’t want chains, then skip this. I personally love my cable chains and it makes it so easy to add and remove wires with each chain link having snap clips on them. You only really need 1 full range chain link. I’ve been modifying the X-Carriage EL link quite a bit because I had difficulty getting a stable print. I finally have it working, but I’ve had to include built-in supports that can be cut away with a razor blade.
  5. Noctura 40mm Fan adapter There are multiple posts in here about moving to a Noctura, this thread is closest to having some sort of model. I’ve made my own design based on Patrik’s work. It can print in this orientation without supports. You will need to use M3x14 screws vs the M3x18 screws that mount the 30mm fan into the hotend body. This is a press fit design, but it is there so if you want to modify it so that it uses screws onto the hotend body, you can do that too. The pegs are spaced 24mm on center. I’m going through testing and still modifying the model. Follow the above thread for my progress.
  6. MK2 X-Carriage for Cartridge Thermisistors I recently upgraded my hotend with the Block and Sock upgrade from E3D and found the connection on the back of the thermisistor clunky. So I redesigned it so that it fits nicely tucked away inside the X-Carriage and included a clip vs using a zip-tie.
  7. You probably want to consider some sort of wall mounted spool holder or some other spool holder solution above the MK2 vs having your spools mounted on your Z-Frame. I’ve encountered a few spools that won’t fit above on the provided spool holders, namely ColorFabb 2.2kg spools. I took an approach similar to Thomas Sanladerer‘s approach.
  8. Check out my other posts. I have similar info organized like above.

About janpenguin

Email: janpenguin [at] riseup [dot] net Every content on the blog is made by Free and Open Source Software in GNU/Linux.
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